The Free Range Gourmet Free range thoughts on the finest ingredients, cuisine, and fine dining in Hawaii.

Range Gourmet

  Local Hawaii ingredients used with an international flair

        ^BNanette^K^H (Gone but not forgotten) 1946-2020


Friday, August 26, 2005


Hawaii's electronic food web

photos: Su Yin Khoo, Hugo Silva

Food blogs are springing up everywhere, and Hawaii is no exception. Just as the Internet challenges traditional newspapers in areas such as tv listings, job and automobile ads (it's so much faster and easier to use on-line resources of all kinds), so food writing on the Web here in Hawaii challenges the dining sections that have been a mainstay of the daily paper.

It will be a while before the papers pay attention, but I think it is inevitable that they will.

Our dailies still serve up full-fat recipes even as readers search for healthier fare. They still publish puff reviews of restaurants that happen also to be advertisers. The space they can devote to any article is limited by the dimensions of the page--a page which is shrinking, by the way, as publishers adopt smaller sizes as an economy move. And if you crave spice or are interested in learning about or trying a particular ethnic cuisine, you're not likely to find what you want in a daily newspaper. Except occasionally.

In contrast, food bloggers dig deep, explore their own interests with breadth and depth, have no practical limitations of space, and have in fact created a new genre of food journalism.

Hawaii food bloggers break new ground

It's not at all unusual to find detailed pictures of restaurants, ingredients, or dishes along with unbiased commentary in our food blogs. The restaurant advertising dollar still goes to the traditional paper and TV media, leaving bloggers free to be brutally honest if they wish. They will neither make a buck nor lose a buck if they praise or pan a particular eatery.

Most blogs are interactive - they allow readers to post comments and so contribute to the dialogue. If I read a review of a great restaurant, I want to go there as soon as I can. In the meantime, readers comments that the place is just as good or even better than the original writer described make me want to go there tonight!

There is real expertise here. Reid's blog `ono kine grindz excels in so many ways. His photos are superb and I trust his judgement when he writes about a restaurant. He has worked out a remarkable arrangement with the Downtown Planet to make some of their material available on his website. So we have a new cross-media cooperative that brings the Downtown Planet's food writing to those of us who can't easily get a copy of the paper. has started podcasting, which is sort of like radio only better, producing an increasingly interesting show that covers Oahu's varied food scene with news and interviews. If you have an iPod or other mp3 player, you can listen as I do, while folding the laundry or even doing the daily dishes. Or just play the program directly from the computer. You'll hear news that you can't get on the radio or find in traditional newspapers.

Alan's blog mā`ona leaves me in awe of his expertise. When I first read it, I thought it must be written by one of Hawaii's famous chefs or sommeliers. Apparently not--so far, our chefs have not undertaken to blog for us. Alan shares his knowledge and experience with us via the finely crafted articles you'll find on his pages. He also takes the time to organize them into categories for reader convenience.

While not a blog, I'm indebted to the eGullet Hawaii forum lead by UH professor Sun-Ki Chai for introducing me to the full variety of Hawaii's cuisines, and in particular, for re-connecting me to sundubu jjigae (a spicy soft tofu hot pot) which I used to enjoy on bone-chilling winter visits to Seoul but had forgotten in warm Hawaii. The place recommended in the article is packed always, perhaps demonstrating the influence of Sun-Ki's in-depth illustrated writeup. Read it and go there yourself (be prepared for a line snaking out to the sidewalk at dinnertime). Note that the address has changed. See info here.

You can be a food blogger

One final thought--space in a newspaper is a scarce resource. None of us likely to ever become a food editor or see our words appear in print in our local paper. The web has no such limitation. If you have something to write (blog) or to say (podcast) you can do it easily, and at zero or minimal expense. Yes, at least for the present, there are many sites that offer free blogging and even free or low-cost space for your podcast program. While blogs are not yet delivered to your doorstep every morning, they are already a force to be reckoned with as people of all ages seek out interesting content on the web.

I've put links to a few of Hawaii's food blogs over on the right side of this page, with the last few articles they've written. Please go there, read them, and come back here if you like.

Sunday, August 21, 2005


First steps in making homemade udon

When we crave Japanese udon, we head for Jimbo, 1936 S King St., Honolulu. Their homemade udon is sooo gooood that I would never dream of making it myself. Never. Well, I do have this electric flour mill and it would be so cool to make my own udon at home, wouldn't it?

I found these really great directions for hand made udon on the web. Well, there is more involved. I won't give it away, just check it out. I love the animated illustrations.

Now that I have these very clear directions, am I going to make udon at home? Nope. Not after reading all the necessary steps. Is this what the chefs do at Japan's great udon restaurants?

Better for me to visit Jimbo for my udon.

See the excellent review of this restaurant over on 'onokinegrindz.

Friday, August 19, 2005


Learn all about tomatoes

An heirloom tomato from Northshore Farms

On the current Eat Feed podcast, host Anne Bramley interviews Andy Smith, the editor-in-chief of the Oxford Encyclopedia on Food and Drink in America and author of The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery and Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment With Recipes. Now, here is a guy who knows lots about tomatoes!

To listen to the podcast, visit the website above, or click here.

Tuesday, August 16, 2005


PSA: The edible schoolyard revolution

The Edible Schoolyard movement continues to spread nationwide (and in Hawaii). I recently heard a public service announcement for the The Chez Panisse Foundation that highlighted the program and and why it is gaining support. To listen, click here.

According to the PSA, not only are students growing, cooking and sharing food at the table, but the edible garden is incorporated into the curriculum, so that the children learn biology, health, the environment, science, history, geography, community and cooperation in a practical way, not like reading about something in a textbook.

After starting in a one-acre schoolyard garden and kitchen classroom at Martin Luther King, Jr. Middle School in Berkeley, California, the program is now being adopted in all the schools of the Berkeley school district, according to the PSA.

For further information call (510) 843-3811 or visit The Chez Panisse Foundation on the web.

For information on the edible schoolyard project in Hawaii, call (808) 885-6085.

Monday, August 01, 2005


Quick links to Hawaii's food blogs

Over on the right side of this page you'll see a growing list of Hawaii food blogs. There's a clickable link to each of them and to the most recent articles. I hope you'll visit them and encourage them to keep up the good work.

Thanks to Reid (`ono kine grindz) for posting a list of new Hawaii food blogs over at the eGullet Hawaii forum.


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Official web pages and Tip Sheets for Saturday morning KCC Farmers' Market, Wednesday night Honolulu Market, Sunday morning Mililani Market, and Thursday Night Kailua Market


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You've read about the world-wide slow food movement. Hawaii has an active Slow Food group. Learn about or join Slow Food USA at the Slow Food USA website.

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